You then would probably change the aperture to something like 2.8 or even 3.5, so this “wall of focus” that your focus wheel controls will completely cover the depth of your subject, while the rest of the room remains comfortably blurred (can you spell “bokeh”). You kinda have to choose between eyes/nose, or ears, since your focus wheel will push an only 5cm thin wall of “in focus” through the room, along the Z-axis with in your frame. Then it will be hard to get the depth of the head all focussed, because your “depth of field” will be around only 5cm. For example, say you are shooting a portrait with around 50mm focal length, your subject is 2,5 meters away, and you have an F-stop of F1.8.
You will notice however, that any lense that you shoot with “wide open” / with the maximum aperture (=smallest aperture number), will give you a relatively shallow depth of field. Fast, because it allows you to set your shutter speed faster, while getting the same amount of light onto the sensor. That means if you have good and sharp lenses with a maximum aperture (=F-stop) of 2.8 or greater (the biggest known to man, or woman, being 0.95 at the moment), the “faster” this lense is. Technically, the more light you get into the camera and then into the processor, the more options you have. Is your lense more tele, like say 85mm, you would need at least 1/85th of a second (or the next higher number your camera offers you).Ĭ) Aperture, F-stop, or “how big is diameter of the tunnel my light has to travel through”. when you have a 30mm lense or your zoom lense is set to 30mm, your shutter speed should be at least 1/30th of a second (better 1/60th, but you gotta find out yourself). But if the object in your framed shot is moving, you will have that blurred then of course.Īs a rule of thumb, when you are going handheld your shutter speed should be at least. With a tripod (or flash, but that would be unfair at this point) you can get away with slower speeds / longer exposure times. Taking photos handheld with too slow of a shutter will blur your pictures, the slower the worse it will be. So it makes sense to try to have the ISO as low as possible always, and also, to have a camera capable of producing good images up to 3200 ISO at least, while always trying to set the lowest possible value, in evaluation to b) and c):ī) Shutter speed, or how long will your sensor be exposed to the light you chose to get through.
The more you amplify though, the more “noise” or grain you will add to your picture, much like amplifying audio, btw. The sensor in digital cameras can amplify the incoming light for processing. Focus is nothing more or less, than a “wall” or pane that you manually push along the Z-axis back and forth via the focus ring.Ī) ISO, or ASA, or sensitivity of the sensor. Where to point your glass as in, what to get into the frame, how close you stand (or zoom), and where you guide the eye in the Z-axis by using focus. Then of course you have the three dimensions in which you build your shot: The physics are easy – we have shutter speed, aperture (or F-stop), and ISO or sensitivity.
(and I keep reminding myself that sometimes having ANY shot can be better than none at all, so everything comes with a grain of salt, always):Ĭapturing light has a technical and an artistic side, which play closely together. So if I would break it down, maybe also for a future blog of mine for my website, I’d probably put it like this Maybe you get something out of this, too: I recently put these words in context for a friend, who was looking for a quick comprehensive guide on how (and why) to manually prepare his camera.
0 kommentar(er)
